A gemstone’s cut brings its natural character to life. From the smooth dome of a cabochon to the sparkle of a faceted stone, each cutting style offers a different way to enjoy colour, pattern and light.
This guide explains common gemstone cuts and shapes to help you choose a stone for your collection or your next jewellery project.
What is the difference between cut and shape?
Shape describes a gemstone’s outline when viewed from above, such as oval, round, pear or square. Cut describes how its surface is fashioned, including its facets, proportions and finish. An oval gemstone, for example, can be a smooth cabochon or a faceted stone.
Cabochon cut
A cabochon has a smooth, polished surface rather than facets, usually with a domed top and a flat or gently curved base. Cabochons are especially suited to gemstones with attractive colour, inclusions or natural patterns.
Cabochon example: a round deep red garnet from Salamandergems. Notice the smooth surface without flat facets.
Stones such as agate, jasper, turquoise and opal are often cut as cabochons. This style can also reveal special optical effects, such as a star or cat’s-eye, when suitable material is correctly oriented and cut.
Choose a cabochon if: you love natural patterns, a smooth finish or a stone that makes colour the main attraction. Cabochons are popular for bezel settings and wire wrapping.
Faceted cuts
Faceted gemstones have multiple flat, polished surfaces that interact with light. The result depends on the gemstone material, the cutting style and the proportions, so not every faceted stone will sparkle in the same way.
Faceted example: a cushion-shaped green zircon from Salamandergems. Notice the flat polished facets and the outline with rounded corners. Cushion describes its shape, while faceted describes its surface.
Brilliant cut
Brilliant-style cuts use triangular and kite-shaped facets arranged to create lively reflections and sparkle. They are often associated with round stones, but brilliant-style faceting can be used in other shapes too.
Step cut
Step cuts have rows of elongated facets, often arranged parallel to the stone’s edges. They create broad flashes of light and an elegant, geometric appearance. Emerald cuts and many baguette cuts are familiar examples.
Mixed cut
A mixed cut combines different facet styles, often brilliant-style facets on the top and step-style facets underneath. It offers cutters another way to balance colour, light return and the shape of the rough gemstone.
Rose cut
A rose cut typically has a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets. Its gentle shimmer gives it a distinctive, often vintage-inspired character.
Popular gemstone shapes
- Round: a classic, versatile outline suited to many jewellery designs.
- Oval: an elongated, rounded shape, popular for both cabochons and faceted stones.
- Pear or teardrop: rounded at one end and pointed at the other, often chosen for pendants and earrings.
- Marquise: an elongated shape with two pointed ends.
- Cushion: a square or rectangular outline with rounded corners.
- Emerald-cut shape: usually rectangular with clipped corners and step-style facets. The name describes the cut, not necessarily the gemstone species.
- Baguette: a narrow rectangular shape, commonly step-cut.
- Heart: a recognisable shape with two rounded lobes and a pointed base.
- Freeform: an individual outline that may follow the rough stone or highlight a particular pattern.
Carved and other finishes
Not every gemstone fits neatly into cabochon or faceted categories. Carved stones may feature flowers, animals or decorative motifs. Some stones are fashioned as beads, polished slices or other forms that celebrate the material in a different way.
Choosing the right stone for your project
Start with the look you love: natural pattern, rich colour, soft shimmer or lively sparkle. Then consider the stone’s dimensions, depth and intended setting. Two stones with the same carat weight can have very different measurements.
If you are buying for an existing setting, check the measurements and profile carefully rather than relying on the shape name alone. Pointed shapes need suitable protection at their tips, and durability varies between gemstone materials regardless of cut.
At Salamandergems, enjoy each gemstone for its individual character. Read the listing details and look closely at the photographs to find the cut, shape and natural features that speak to you.